Today we went to Assisi with Michael, and had a wonderful time. We were somewhat bemused to arrive at the train station only to find that there's no longer a train at that time (or a "trenino" as they call it), but rather a "pullman." So we got to crush into a tour bus and go heaving and swaying for over an hour to Perugia. Ashley was feeling a little green by the time we got there, and Michael commented that the bus was evidently not designed to have people standing -- no straps. But we got to the station in time to catch the 10-minute train ride to Assisi, and had the opportunity to see the Basilica di San Francesco, including relics, unbelievable frescoes ("St. Francis Feeding the Birds" is only one of hundreds of panels), and chalices and other religious pieces. The kids continue to amaze me with their level of interest and attention.
Lunch at a pizzeria (which was delicious, actually), and then off to find the Temple of Minerva. I'd read that it was a superb example of a Roman temple. We went to a likely looking building (lots of Romanesque columns), and found -- a church. A very ornate church. But NOT a Roman temple. So we went back outside and wandered around, looking for signs. Niente. Oh, wait! There's a sign -- pointing in the general direction of the church we just exited. I asked a police officer who looked at me as if I were crazy, and then pointed. To the church. Silly me -- of course the Christians wouldn't have left a temple to Minerva intact in the center of town. So it's a great example of a Roman temple...from the outside.
Unraveling the next mystery -- the location of St. Francis's birth house. I knew the general direction from our prior trip, but no more than that. We wandered a bit, then asked. The shopkeeper pointed the way from which we had come and then told me to turn left. Left we duly turned, and found a little piazza with a church. Only. No signs, but a tiny street coming off the piazza. I asked a local, who responded somewhat unintelligibly (it might have helped had he had any teeth left), with vague gestures towards the church and the general indication that going inside would get us there. Huh? We could also go down the little road. But he didn't like that way as much.
Into the church. Near the altar was a sign: "Santuario" -- doesn't exactly seem likely, but we'll give it a try. The door led OUTSIDE and into a little courtyard. And we were? Yes -- in the vestibule of St. Francis's HOUSE! Wow. 800 years later, and it's still there. We were not permitted to go inside, but just being in the vestibule was so neat. And it must have been quite a house in its day.
After that, a quick tour of Sta. Chiara's church, and then back to the trian station in Assisi. We took the train to Perugia, only to find that the next train to Todi would be a Pullman (sigh) -- over an hour hence. So we settled ourselves down with some schoolwork, and whiled away the time productively. When the train arrived, it was PACKED. We were like sardines. I almost asked if the train was coming from Sardegna, but I didn't think anyone would be amused. So we had the pleasure of standing in the train for an hour.
We got to Todi Ponte Rio, and had the best transportation experience ever: We got off the trian, I purchased tix for the bus, and it arrived. Right then. As we wound our way up the hill, we decided that we should ring the bell to get off (despite the fact that the Piazza Jacopone is a main stop for that bus). Eleanor rang it just at our street (as it happened)...and the bus stopped. Right there. At the bottom of our street. Bliss!
We're home now, and the kids are playing Minopoly (more on that from the kids), and I'm having tea. Aaaah.
Love,
Alexandra
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